Skutas

11 dogs at home

Lasie atsivede suniuku po langais.

Down Rio Patuca

Su Liutauru issiruosem i zygi. Is aukstai atrodo ispudingai.
04.14 20:00 15 val autobusu. Juticalpoj apstraksejau 6 viesbucius. Nusiderejau 50 lempiru (8 lt) nuo kambario kainos. Pavalgem kinieciu restorane uz 100.Kita ryta vel autobusas. Visiskai autentiskas vistukinis sikart. 4 val dulkese per pusim apaugusius kalnus ir kauboju lygumas. Dulkiu sluoksnis visose vietose. Patuca arba Palestina. Apspirkimo vieta pries Moskitijos platumas. Susiradom vieta pagal Liutauro rasta kazkieno aprasyma. Hotel Viajero. Keletas valciu isplauke ryte, niekas labai nesiverzia musu imti, kaip supratau kai kur valti reikia stumti - isdzuve. Nuvaziavom prie valciu - 30 min dulkese dar egzotiskesniu autobusu. Viena turi isplaukt poryt (penktadieni) bet dar turi atplaukt. Pakrantej sukrautos prekes vezti indenams I Moskitija: rakandai, ciuziniai, skalbimo pasta, sausainiai.. Parveze atgal I miesta vietinis ranchero Jose-Luis 1500ha, 1000 karviu. Bet nori daugiau.. Cia kiti mastai. Mieste kauboju svente. Ryt rodeo. Jei neisplauksim ryte - bent tokia paguoda. Nusipirkau ananasa ir peili. Reikes pirk nauja kepure kad neiskepciau valty - savaja palikau Kopane. Radau 10 lt ant gatves. Smagu.Susipazinom su vieninteliu angliskai snekanciu vietiniu vardu Hector. Buves kareivis. Desto anglu kalba vaikams. Papasakojo dalyku apie kara ir narkotikus. Lektuvai leidziasi ant keliu daznai cia. Cionyksciams netrukdo. Pavaisinom alum. Koja kiek geriau. Vandeni nusiplaut dulkem praziopsojom. Apsislakstem is backos. Vartausi lovoj negaliu uzmigt. Karsta, ventiliatorius nepadeda. Arba maliarija.

04.16 15:00 Neisplaukem. Autobuse I Catacamas, is ten I Dulce nombre de Culmi, tada prie upes Wampu ir valtim I Wampusirpe. Ilga istorija. Rodeo buvo autentiskas. Kazkas tarp amerikos rodeo ir ispanu koridos. Tik saviveiliskai. Bet uztai su azartu. 5 ryto atsikelem vaziuot link upes. Isvaziavom 7.30. Beje, visas Patukos miestas - didelis dulkiu debesis. Nuvaziavom, palaukem zmogaus, kuris zadejo mus paimt. Persigalvojo. Taip ir nesupratom per dvi dienas priezasciu, kodel nenori imti zmoniu.Upe - pilna aukso ieskotoju. Valtim plukdo prekes indenams, is ju - suri. Apsistojom nakciai, labai autentiskai prie upes. Vakare ijunge generatoriu - ir vaikai ir indenai(miskitos) ziurejo susede telika. Kaip kino teatre. Paskaiciavom. Nebeuzteks grynu pinigu. Nebent nevalgytume. Taip ir ir daryt nusprendem. Kazkaip is siaip nebepatinka kaimietisku vistu kiausiniai. Ju siukslunu ir plastiko dieta, t.y.. Miskitos du dviem valtim pazadejo ryte paimt. Uzlipom I kalna pasigrozet iskirstu misku. Karsta, viskas isdege.Bandziau zvejot - mazytes, viskas isbraukta tinklais. Kaip Afrikoj. Vakare atplauke daug valciu. Istorijos apie ju stumdyma isdziuvusia upe, usuotu aukso ieskotoju istorijos. Pastarieji skundziasi, kad rancheros (zemvaldziai) eina ieskot aukso ir juos isstumia. Issimaudem upej (gerai, kad nera Anabeles, ta butu isprotejus) nes daugiau nebuvo kur. Vakare miegojom beveik vienoj lovoj su indenais valtininkais ir turtingais surio supirkejais. Pastarieji knarke. Pasistaciau uodu tinkleli ir dziaugiaus - aplink zujo siksnosparniai. Ryte visas tinklelis nusetas ju guamu. Kliuvo ir po tinkleliu siek tiek. Kelem 5 ryto kartu su visais. Reksminga (labai ispaniska) seimininke papjove vista. Mane kad valgys. Kelinta karta pastebiu, kas valgis kainuoja tiek pat ar valgai visa kalna ka duoda, ar tik kiausinius, pvz. Miskitos neisplauke. Pasivaiksciojom. Grazu. su pienoveziu (irgi cionykstis kaloritas) davaziavom atgal iki Patukos (nunai Nueva Palestina), surinkinedami piena is kuzavo. Po to surininkas atveze beveik iki Juticalpos. Zadejo pirkt metalo detektoriu ir eit ieskoti aukso. Auksas nunai brangus.. Patariau geriau pardavineti detektorius karstines jau pagautiems. Beje, matem plukdoma ne viena aukso plovimo aparata. Svaikata gerai, akis skaudejo vakare, bet cia nuo dulkiu.

04.17 11:00 Catacamas - pirmas daugiau maziau svarus miestas Hondure. Malonus zmones. Nusipirkom jogurto ir pomidoru.. Pagalvojau kad zmones visai negeria pieno, nors pilna karviu. Taciau dar geresnis ispudis Culmi. Pigu, ne tik neplesia nuo turistu bet net nuleidzia nuo normalios kainos, labai paprasti ir malonus zmones, visai kitaip nei Patukoj. Keleta zmoniu matem su sortais. Neitiketina. Uztat perspektyvos gauti valti - miglotos... Vis maziau sako siemet atvaziuoja indenu. Seniai ju niekas nemate. Susisiuvau kelnes uz 2lt ir skaniai pavalgiau uz 7. Viesbuty yra vanduo! Cia tikrai turistai neuzklysta. Faktas.

04.17 20:00 Miske uz upes rekia tinginiai, uz sienos cirpia svirpliai ir pauksciai, o pro darzines sienas sviecia didziulis menulis. Kvepia lauzu. Ta darzine tai Hasienda Hanner - didelis transporto mazgas hanner ir wampu upiu santakoj. Dar kambary miega 6 zmones, vistu ir oziuku. Atvaziavom negreit - pakeliui zmones pasakojo apie tigrus (kaip slepes kadais), krokodilus, kaip puole ir kaip gynes, apie tai kaip kur gauti zemes, apie karves ir moteris . 4 valandos per degancia selva. Man besipiktinant pasakojo, kad parduot atograzu medienos negalima, todel degina. Dega tukstanciai ha.. Kad paskui butu ganyklos. Musu ponauja toyota vezami kilometrai vielos aptverimui. Jei randi niekeno miska ir ji isdegini - tavo... Sunku patiket bet tiesa. Belieka tvora uztvert ir kelia numint. Arba numins karves.. Ejom su kuprinem gera valanda. Papudos, pauksciai, driezai. Tada per deganti miska. Simtmetiniai raudonmedziai katik nujauti pries uzdegant.. Laukiniu apelsinu medis - kaip tirkri tik rukstus. Bridimai per upe, spalvotos zuvys ant blizges.. Vezliu ir sarvuociu kiautai ismetyti aplink. Indeniukai dursto zeberklu zuvytes. Valtis ka tik isplauke... Liutauras bijo plaukt indenu valtele - vezasi kompa ir kamera.. Gal ir tiesa. Matysim.. Issimaudem. Nakvyne nemokama - malonu. Pasnekejom su seimininku apie deganti miska. Gresia dykuma po 30 metu. Seimininke papasakojo kad paskutiniai baltaodziai buvo pries 6 metus. Ant lentu miegam.. Vakariene soti: sviezia varske, pupeles su svogunu ir juka (vietine saknis-neiveikiau). Baiges vanduo - virinam upes..

04.18 13:00 Gryztu is maudyniu upej. Labai malonu. Nebegalvoju apie sraiges po oda. Pilna tinginiu miske uz upes - rekauja pries lietu sako. Reikes eit pasizvalgyti. Kvepia kepta zuvyte.. Prigaudziau visa kruva ivairiu. Didesnes nusikando mano blizgutes. Ejom pesciom per miska pilna tukanu ir vietiniu kurtiniu su milziniskais medziais... Krokodilu nematem tik gyvaciu. Per valanda atejom I sekancia sodyba pakeliui - los angeles. Gobsus zmones - paeme 30 lempiru uz fanta, turi valti, gali duoti, bet reikes parvezti. Dar gali nuvezt arkliais iki kitos sodybos, ten gali buti laivu.. Netinka.Ryte keliau su gaidziais (Liutauras regis vakare dziauges kad ju cia nera) jau iprantu. bet kuriuo atveju ant lentu ilgai nepamiegosi. Jojom pas karves. Vietiniai arkliukai - eiklus ir paklusnus. Patinka cia. Einu dar zvejot - vietiniai nieko nepagauna - suzaveti mano meskere. Nuvyliau, kad zvejyba man jau kainavo 80Lps uz blizgutes.. Ech, likciau cia dar savaitei. Paaiskejo, kodel netinka plaustas ir valtele - Liutauras nemoka plaukt. Vel einu zvejot. Vis praskrenda papugu pulkeliai. Tokie pat kaip londone. Rusena selva - puiki vieta isrukyt pagautas piranijas. Be ju dar veisias dideli eseriai ir cionyksciai sapaliukai.Aha. Kai nulupo paskutine maza blizgute is europos (tiko visos), uzsidejau vietine, kuriu apdairiai uzpirkau san pedro sula, sumokedamas uz taksona I miesta ir paveluodamas I autobusa I tegusigalpa. Paaiskejo, kad man nukasdavo jas samai. Dautuoti, ir labai kieti. Super malonumas juos rauti. Aprupinau seima zuvim savaitei, uzsitarnavau zvejo pravarde ir slove mepps. Dar ilgai kalbes.Grizes isgeriau dar pora litru ir susiruosem lipt I bezdzioniu kalna uz upes. Besikeliant indenu valtele Liutauras nusprende kad nenori plaukt. Galiu suprast, nelabai stabilu. Besiropsciant keturiom ir lianom I autentiska selva, (regis draustinis sitoj pusej upes nors ten kur zvejoju padeginta ir toj pusej) isgirdom motora, bet pasirodo Liutauras supasavo. Taigi jau nebegalim apmoket keliones ant dvieju. Mano skaiciavimais man reik isplaukt I Barra Patuca ryt ryte, kad iki velyku grizt. Kad ir su maza valtele iki kruasirpe, kuri ant upes patuca. Jei ne - planas pabuti cia dar pora dienu ir grizt iprastai. Siokia tokia rizika, kad pries velykas viskas sustos. Kas juos zino.Sivakar tinginiai ubauja kazkur toliau. Gal isbaidziau? Ryt ryte reiks pabandyt pagaut ka didelio. Eisiu pas kitus indenus (valanda kelio), gal nuves iki krausirpes.Dona Maria Zuviene is samo buvo suuuper. Snekejom su don Tonio (seimininku) apie tai kaip reikia selva saugoti. Jo iniciatyva, beje. Tigra (jaguara) sake paskutini kart mate pries 6 metus, aligatorius nunese 4 parsiukus pernai rugpjuti. Vadinas atplaukia su lietumi. Idomu, bet pievose uodu nera, tik selvoj. Islindo menulis - sviesu. Kazkur netoli kazkas I kazka sove. Bandau uzmigt - groja radijukas rogramoj - el sonido de biodfera... Tip iglesias. Grazu. Liutauras bando sneket ispaniskai - jau pramoko. Dona Maria pasakoja, kad vaikai I mokykla eina. Tiksliau joja..

04.19 11:00 Cha cha! Vaziuojam! Teisus buvo liutauras nunai persikeles per rubikona atgal. Pirma: plaukti ne saugu, antra, galima uzstrgti dar toliau. Keliaus 4, kad nepaveluot I Catalino valti, sis su seima plauke atistogu zemyn iki patukos. Stumem kas 5 min, kartais iki kaklo, kelis kartus buvo uzstrige, vos ne apsivertem ne karta. Upe isdziuvus. Peizazas panasus beiveik iki pat patukos - deganti selva... Sako keliu nera bet atjoja raiti paskui karves. Catalino geria is upes, kiti - is upelio. Zodziu - didelis nuotykis. Avaziavom iki trobeles ant patukos. Kazkur nedavaziavus krausirpes. Laukiu praplaukiancio laivo, bet kazkaip neatrodo kad butu ju daug.. Zmones visur eina su sautuvais.. gal toks paprotys. Gavau saldziosios kavos ir ryziu su pupelem. Ta jie cia valgo. Pakeliui praplaukem nemazai lankais zvejojanciu indenu. Kai kurie irgi su sautuvais. Turbut irgi velyku tradicija - kad zuvies nieks neatimtu.Fotoaparato batareikos seda, iki civilizacijos vis dar arciau apsisukus atgal..Liutauras paliko pinigu is savo dalies. Aciu jam, tikiuosi gris saugiai. Is tiesu nebutu labai dziaugesis valty ir cia atvaziaves. Labai noreciau grizt namo iki velyku.. Nupirkau lauktuviu antiguales karoliuka pas dona maria pries isvaziuojant, palikau blizge dovanu, gavau maisto I kelione kuri bendrakeliaiviai nesivarzydami pasidalino. Negaila.. Kaip ir vandeni. Po to pripyle I balos aisku, bet nuo to nelabai geriau nes cia nelabai zinau, kur gauti.

04.19 18:00 Moskitija. Paeme pirma valtele. Prasiau iki Krausirpe nuveze iki Tukru. Netoli nuo Wampusirpe, bet dar ne ten.Ir turbut buvo vienintelis nes nei pralenke mus bestovinejancius kas nei praplauke po to. Kompanija super - su vistom ir panasiai, lanko draugus pakeliui, valgo arbuza (gerai, nes saule kepina galingai) galvojau nusipirksiu braskiniu-ananasiniu bananu (pakeleivis valge obuolinius) bet dave nemokamai, sako, moskitija cia. Progaudziau zuvies per viena sustojima, atidaviau uz sypsena. Cia pinigai prabanga, arba uzsiauginama arba mainoma, dovanojama. Kazkas valtininkui padovanojo dar viena vista ir dziovintos zuvies ir arbuzu.. Tas pakviete ziureti telika per velykas, kristau kancia turi filma. Sako kristaus vainikas turi spec reiksme ir siaip kiekviena detale turi reiksme. Ech, tu bananu skanumelis. Yra to gero cia. Pakrantes irgi grazu - kaimeliai ant poliu, besimaudantys vaikai. Selva antram plane. Nusove krokodila musu vairuotojas, sake jie blogi. Maniau pravaziuos kas pro sali, paves iki wampusirpe bet ka tu. Pazvejojau be rezultatu ant ornamentuotupakrantes akmenu. Likau nakvot tukru pas vietini prekeivi. Idomu kiek uzprasys. Salygos siaip sau, miegosiu hamake (gal ir geriau nei ant lentu), nieko, pavarges. Bent pasikrausiu fotiko batareikas is saules bateriju akumo. Pasikabinau tinkleli - visi turi pasikabine. Snekos apie taip kaip ivaziuot I jav, apie moteris - cia apie tai viskas be uzuolanku, aiskinu, kad skubu pas zmona, bet pridedu, kad auropietiskos moterys kaip europietiski arkliai - grazios dideles bet nenori dirbti. Kazkas zinojo apie Lietuva daugiau maziau. Kiekvienas su pistoletu. Net bahuras Kike kokiu 16 (tikras salvatrucha kadras), kuris man pasisove parodyti kaima ir supazindinti su grazuolem. Dar turiu drauga Chiki, kokiu 5.. Jauciuos pavarges. Nebutinai pavyks ryt nusigaut net iki Bruce Lagunos...Zmones perka is parduotuves (mano miegamojo): ryziai, taukai, kava, cukrus. Dienos racionas...Vaikai aplink buriuojas, ziuri ka cia darau. Kaimo aikstej dvesia karve, o gal siaip prigule. Vaikai aplink spardo kamuoli.Ijunge telika, vaikai subego ziuret. Idomu ar reikia nusipirkt bilieta? telefono pakrovimas - 5 Lps..Sitie zmones tikrai labai neturtingi.Senolis is kitos trobos su generatorium atejo issinuomti dvd. Prase apie bruce lee...Atejo kitas prekeivis, aptarineja bizni, sudarineja kartelius. Biznierius mano seimininkas.

04.20 9:00 Regis isvaziuojam. Rolando pakviete sugrizti - sako zino kruva Aru lizdu kalnuos bet paleidzia jas. Dvieju rusiu yra papaguayos (aros): raudonios ir geltonos. Ju pilni miskai. Tas - tiesa, girdis ju ir prie upes. Ryte kava gere ir 2 metu mergaite. Uz nakvyne pinigu neeme. Vietines grazuoles sypsosi. Isteka cia 12 metu.. Pasiilgau savuju. Wampusirpej gal bus jau telefono signalas. Indenas paklause ar nebijojau Rio Wampu plaukt, sako ten indenai (!) zudo..

04.20 12:00 Atplaukiau i Wampusirpe, pagavau sama prieplaukoj, radau jauku viesbutuka ant poliu. Pietums gausiu vezliu sriubos. Didelis indenu kaimas. Labai idomu. Bet iki juros jau nenusigausiu. Ryte reik isplaukt. Vakar keturios valtys isplauke, siandien - nei vienos. Esancios planuoja plaukt po velyku.. Nebent kas praplauks...Oho! Yra mokykloj internetas! Ir net wifi lauke tuo paciu dazniu, kaip Virsuliskese kaimynas! Reik nuramint namiskius. Yra lektuvelis I ceiba net ir I puerto lempira. Jau isivaizduoju koks.. Siandien isskrido. Po pokalbiu internetu, jauciaus kad skrisciau jei butu. Nieko, kaip nors nusigausiu.Vietines kriauses saldziai karcios. Suvalgiau zuviene is samo, pabendravau su ponu Nieves is fondo, kuris mokina vietinius augint kakava ir ja superka. Sako geri pinigai ir kilnus tikslas. Nvo goal ireland matuoja pagal satelita gatves ir namus cia. Idomu kam?Vezliu sriuba - skanu ir labai sotu. Cia ne naujiena. Seksi seimininke sake vyras 4 siandien pagavo. Vieno seimai pilnai pakanka. Pasisiuliau I medziokle vakare. Gerai, kad batareikos pakrautos! Idomu kiek uzteks korteles?Nusipirkau cocacola, tik kur gauti vandens??Negali atskirt, kai atplaukia valtis upe + vis mane apgauna burzgiantis elektros generatorius.

04.20 17:00 (Wampusirpe) Will switch to English after having read Alexander’s diary. Miss them a lot. Miss my girls even more.. Did not go turtle hunting - too late. Went fishing with locals instead. Poor kids watching me catching fish, them trying in vane with their half sardines. Left the fish of course. Few mosquito bites, but hey, have got used to it in Copan already.. Or Lithuania.. Anyway, will see it in a week.Then a shower under the stars. Still forcing myself not to open my mouth when showering. Learned to wash with a glass of water lately.. River is dirty here - not appealing at all. Will go to hunt drinking water, but afraid in wane.. No light around, candles next door but hardly help as they are 100 metres away. Generator noise further away, is for the cell phone antenna (only Digicel) the only operator for hundreds of kilometres around. Late already. Learned to go to sleep with sunset, waking up with morning roosters. Let's see if the miraculous internet at the local school still works.The little kitchen towel I took from our kitchen at home in Copan has proved extremely useful. Mistake not taking the torch. Little blinking insects do not provide enough light. Local race is a mixture of Indians and English speaking blacks. So is the language. English numbers for instance. Wanlalma for Eastwind. Only older people know this one... Back from my quest without grand success. Quite normal - who would buy expensive water here? Except I think I saw a catholic nun in town.. But she may be a local too. By the way, with 5 churches in Tucrun, I can imagine how many churches there are here...Quite annoying worrying about stepping into cow poo after having a bath. The village belongs to them - nce? But my shirt and trousers might be smelling sort of it anyway.. Another mistake not taking a second pair of trousers.. or losing them.. Can not get used to big beetles landing on my skin at night.. mmm, a real bed with mattress! Definitely worth 100Lps...An observation: They do not lock their houses (no windows anyway) but lock their loos.

04.21 10:00 Lost my camera this morning when running to the boat. Somebody must have picked it up. Should I stay or should I go? Shooting at the river. Mr Nieves saying there are a least 5 secret plane fields around here..8 churches (found out) in Wampusirpi will ask people at Easter to give me my camera back.. Fished more fish for lunch, probably the biggest of the flat ones I've caught.. No camera though.. Saw that more turtles had arrived. Their carapaces are among ordinary tins and plastic garbage around. Strange feeling not being able to take a picture. Will have to describe as in old times..Mendez, whose house I visited in Arenas Blancas (up Patuca) are here, selling their rice and sugar. Asked them to let me know if somebody tries to sell them my Canon.Liutauras apparently had to walk for 5 hours untill he caught a truck for Culmi. Probably the same time it took me to reach the Patuca river.04.21 15:00 Easter in the air. Looks like I am staying here as no more boats on the river. Women trying to clean (bit in vain as wind started and rubbish flies freely everywhere, men shaving, kids run dressed. I walk half naked. Gave my week old shirts to wash in a spring. Apparently you need to leave them in the sun for a while if they are dirty. All 8 churches singing.Everything reminds me of Haiti so much. This society is definitely more black than indian.Not easy to be in a place where you can't understand a word. Seems like everybody is talking about you. Boys gathered around my cabin. Probably picked up my lost spinner but do not dare to ask for ransom.. Yes, exactly. One boy slid into the room holding my spinner.. Gave them a rubber one in exchange.Shooting around when churches are singing.Football match on the sandbank in the middle of the river. Everybody is having fun.Met a local guy with blue eyes and a gringo! A missionary from Ohio working in Krausirpe. A big fish took away the saved spinner. Thinking about organising a fishing trip.You can buy the big green parrot as in our house in Copan for 400 Lps. They are also flying around. A local boy says they fly away with male parrots and come back later with chicks! Shall I get one? Probably not. Do not have enough money for my plane back to Ceiba (on Saturday). Nieves says to get to Tacoa costs 600 to Bruss, 400 to Batailla and then 500 more. 1500, Then must be 150 to Ceiba. And three days travel..Washed myself in local water source with local girls, half naked, as realised later.

Adding a video to have the feeling http://wn.com/wampusirpi_la_moskitia

04.22 9:00 Can't help waking up at 5 in the morning. Went fishing, waiting for a boat to pass. So beautiful: thick mist from the river rising into the huge Mahogany trees on the banks, green lorra parrots flying across the river, huge kingfisher passing by. Water is really warm, so are the fish. Caught some robalos in addition to traditional piranias (muchaka), perch (sabalo) and catfish (dormilon). Believe me there are big fish down here..Hooked up a tree, ten local boys jumped in to help enthusiastically.. and lost it.. No more fishing on this trip.Good Friday - people dressed in black. Seems like culmination of Semana Santa. Nobody is working.Two boats arrived from Brus Laguna, charged entirely with Pepsi - local drink for Easter (I am a faithful consumer). No one leaving..Posted a notice about lost camera with 500Lps reward - no result.Guys at the river practicing holding their pistols. I'm having my fish soup. Will miss this soup with rice - my only daily food.Rocky, the host, told a story about his grandfather from Belize, falling in love with local cloth washer. Never seen again. Normal thing here.Nieves telling story about kids of German explorers (forestry). And about an alligator tail toast.Military helicopter circling - observing the air fields - stupid thing to do in daylight.Solar electricity systems cost 25K or 50K lps, but otherwise for diesel electricity they are paying 600Lps a month here.Guys from upriver selling gold in the village. 520Lps ounce/390g. Starting gold washers’ stories: one of them Jose Marrio Ivarro washed gold all his life and died poor.From 1-2PM starting to cool down.Was chatting with Rocky and his friends about the people from Arenas Blancas: stingy Dona Paula, and her business(b&b), humilde Don Eugenio, that sold a cow without telling his wife and was thrown out of the house, their son, that studied law but never finished, daughter Marvilin that was killed by 'big' people for speaking too much three weeks ago. Don Benito, the cheese trader from Tegusigalpa and his brother Angel. Funny gossiping about people in 2 days travelling up the river. Different dimensions here as people 2 days up the river are still neighbours.You can only fish in Patuca from March to May, then with rain the river gets dirty, you should go further up to feeder rivers, where it is still clean.

04.23 9:00 One more attempt to get the boat. Beer cans everywhere. Because Good Friday is a holiday, the whole village was drinking..Went to buy some cookies for breakfast. Everything is double the price here. No eggs despite chicken around. These are for meat not eggs.Drunk guys with their Mousers asked by the river to offer them my rod. Politely refused.. Actually here u not only carry your gun, but also have two sets of ammunition at your belt. Narcos were their heroes..Indian pipante came. Taking me to Wawina - 4 hours down the river. Will go with them. In an hour.. Hope is still today. Saw a guy floating down the river on a timber holding machete, platanos and mais for sale. A girl swimming across while chatting on a cell phone..Words I understand in Miskito language: motorkawa, gasolinka.On the road again. Or rather river.Same wild river, full of fallen tree trunks (one can only imagine river monsters underneath), otters, water birds, fishing eagles. Nothing to throw the water out of the pipante - getting 10 cm deep, everything getting wet.Stopped at little villages: some long nose pigs, chicken, green grass and a few trees, then selva and wetlands..People passing messages with us to the villages down the river. Water melon shared with passengers.Wow, so many mosquitoes on the river surface! Is it where real Moskitia starts? Shores perforated with holes by prawns - gives an idea of how dry the river is.Stopped to chat to a hunter crossing the river. So authentic! All in mud with old gun and hard rock café t-shirt and full cayuco of things: a beaver, bag of huge machaka, a net, paddle..Gave some fish to the guy holding the motor, sold some to somebody. 5lps for a big fish. Now the boat is charged also with the fish, the water inside, and all my rucksack and sleeping bag stink of fish...Sun starts going down at 4 - the scenery is absolutely amazing! Deep green forest, sun reflections in the water, colorful birds all around! People carrying banana and frijoles down the river in their cayucos - all the boats are almost drowning, but look, one of the paddlers has got earphones plugged in.. Some struggling up the river: dogs and women walk onshore.The huts by the river get poorer, only leaf roofs now some do not have walls. Maybe it makes sense houses on pillars: further from insects, snakes, easier to clean.Everybody left, I'm the only passenger - have to stand at the front looking for fairwater. Not easy to balance.Ok, here it goes. Wawina. Striking dejavu, Haiti. Old people relaxing by the wooden huts, naked children.. I am supposed to go further to the center of the village to get a ride to Ahuas.. Half a mile walking the disperse huts not even getting closer to each other. Apparently no cars or boats to Ahuas. Probably not even tomorrow... Tomorrow Easter. Slight heart pain - still had a hope to see family apparently..An church by the road (very Haitian too as is sort of pedestrian and bicycle road) an old rusty fire extinguisher at the entrance serving as a bell.. Heard it in operation later.. An gipsy (!) Looking lady by the hut with jaguar skin inside sent a boy to show me where to stay a night. Wow, this is the center - an immense field with a local cathedral, wind and last sunbeams and wild horses running and screaming around... Absolutely surreal...
A rich house in front - my new home. Suggested to cook for 60Lps and I refused of course. Went back to where I saw lady selling bread - they cook these delicious pancakes they call bread.. Asked for eggs, showed how to make egg sandwiches.. Were bit raw.. Thus I changed my diet for last 4 days which was cookies for breakfast and dinner and fish soup with rice for lunch.. And coke. Today hardly ate anything.. The house has generator, charging phone. My room (probably somebodys daughters) has mosquito net. Which is one more white sheet. For bathing - there is a well in the garden. No water in it though.. The same big black beetles everywhere..Such a shame without camera. So many characters around..Two cell operators in village, not mine..Will walk tomorrow to Ahuas, maybe somebody will give me a lift..Gipsy lady passed by the shop to speak on cell phone (bought minutes) had her things to say noted on a paper, read it in 5 seconds...Found few beetles on my bed, under the sheet, there are more - can hear them.

04.24 9:00 Easter morning. Had my bread with coffee. On my highway to Ahuas (which is 4 lines walking path). A thick morning mist on the grass, like Lithuania. Cows do not eat this grass - not a single one here. Lorra parrots around.People walking opposite - shoes in hands. Thinking I should have left my wet sleeping bag behind..Crossing Waxma. Judging from carapaces on the road they have turtle diet here. By the way turtle meat reminded me veal in some ways.Huge lark chicks on the road. Remember having read in Dumas they were quite tasty.. First river crossing - successful even in the frame that served the bridge shook well.. Completely wet under the sun in these lowlands. Second crossing - big river - a man with cayuco helped for 10 pesos.Ahuas - a bigger version of Wampusirpe. Quasi completely black. Has an airport but no river. Have to carry on to till Paptalaya. One should never go jusq'au bout here because there is always a little bout left.. A father teaching kids at home - can hear the belt, a guy beating his wife in the street.. All-time record - trying to sell me coma bottle for 70Lps. Easter, no boats leaving today..Mister Woods at the river offered kindly his hamoc for my convenience..Found a boat to Brus for tonight. Whole day waiting. Mr Woods accidentally dropped his wife's best scarf on the ground and was cleaning his chainsaw on it. She picked it up quietly.. However he cleaned after himself when finished.Drinking coffee with river water.Have to buy bolsa para percolar cafe - local way of making coffee.People unloading cahoa wood for construction in the woods. Confused when I offer to help. It is prohibited even to carpent or trade or use exotic wood.. But fine burning it..Had my Easter lunch with Rudy, love immigrant from Roatan, building hotel. Apart of politics told me about a lady taking hundreds of lorras to Roatan. Apparently they are 3 times more expensive there. Very intelligent person, but.. Once more fell under the 60Lps-meal rule for a plate of spaghetti and put a cross on him.Somebody drank the remaining soda, I left with my bags while having lunch. No surprise with this price...About to leave to Brus with Emsli (leaving at 8PM). According to locals there is a night boat to Batalla from there, leaving at 3AM.. Hope to be home by tomorrow night..Mr Wellington Woods offering a job for a local rastaman to look after his 30 cows.. Giving 1500 lps a month, a gun, a horse, and the food. Or 3000 without food. I also refuse their food (maisena+milk and third time warmed bulk of potatoes - saw it covered with flies daytime).Cat crunching with pleasure the abundant black beetles dropping down from the light.Leaving at 9PM. Me, Emsli and Wellingtons freezer to be repaired in Brus.. Down Rio Patuca at night. Watching the stars, thinking wishes.. Falling asleep. Actually quite easy to see with torch where river gets shallow. Only once hit a tree badly..Picked up 4 freezing and smelly local ladies...The most of the way through narrow canals. Wonder who build these? Too slow, will miss my boat. Quite a few small alligators. Uncomfortable and cold. What more, rain pouring.. Spilling watter from my had periodicaly. Wet, cold and desperate..Laguna is really impressive. Navigating under the trees, a labyrinth of waterways. Beautiful. Must be good for fishing too.Arrived 4PM, boat has left. Shivering, tired and desperate. Emsli telling fishing stories.

04.25 9:00 Brus Laguna. Sure, once I am here, all the boats go up the river to pick up passagers.. Little moska bites so painful. Tiny ones, u can hardly see them. Elmsi says no moskitero would work (I would disagree probably concerning the last one I used in Wawina).My conversation at the cafe stand: - cuanto le doy por el cafe? - Cinco, diez.. - Cinco. - Si.People fishing shrimps full scale here. A ver if I can taste one.Wow, full plate (but FULL) of shrimps at Lakuna Pajaska for 60 Lps! Delitious! An option - night trip to Ceiba. Dismissed as Annabel and Alexander are coming to Tela to meet me!! Having phone working, feel back to life. Halleluyah! Good idea selling watter melon by peaces: good for both sides.

04.25 12:00 A sailor friend was taking me to the ship Margarita II, bound for La Ceiba, which was at the exit of the Laguna (laguna actually is laguna, not only mangroves) but the captain refused to take me on board. Because of the cargo, said my new friend.. Then headed to a passing boat but stopped half way - 'narcos on business' apparently. Jumped on one more boat. Wood family (half of Brus are Wood's). A blond kid on board - from another mother - current thing here.Took me across Rio Platano mangrove then delta with happy local villages: kids swimming in clean canals, ladies doing laundry. Disembarked at place called Jerusalem, got another boat to Iban, then Palacios, where will have to cross to Batailla, hoping to hich a car.Quite clean villages, except Batailla. Everybody has a boat with a motor or two (fast jets important for teir business), big cars. Many fishing nets=no fish. But there are turtles - passed by some sunbathing - really cool ones. Remember Emsli telling how they fish all the schools of turtles with one hook - apparently turtles are not very clever.Batailla - dirty black beach village. Quick swim, quick flirt with black sexy shop owner and beach road. No more water trips in plans.Two hours under the sun, few cars not stopping. Losing hope. Next one didn't stop, and almost turned with its untied cargo and 4 guys on top into the sea.. And stopped!Then everything like in action movie: 30 minutes rodeo with the shifting cargo on the sand and sea water, local girls greeting, dancing club in if the vilages, pelicans flying above the water. Man pulled ferry arriving Irriona, 4 hours dusty road. Stopped at Rio Ingles, collected 2 huuuge sea turtle carapaces (police touched one at one of the check points but did not realise), beautiful sunset, returning back to pick up two monks (the were thinking I am drunk in a pickup, indeed falling asleep. An orange juce and a cookie at gas station: welcome back, explorer! Looked at myself in the mirror - 1st time in 10 days.Kept waking up on the tyre in the pickup, imagine will have tire print on my cheek for a week. After 1h hitchhiking caught a taxi to Tela for 500Lps.

Vida Copaneca

Library.

Pollo frito.

Dona Luiza naminiai ledai po 3Lps.


Mais for lunch.

Shopping.

Mauricio Cataneda, el architecto

Kompas ir kava San Rafael.

Going out.

Una gringa para picar?

Kava